Our wheels start with our proprietary composite formula. This is molded into a one piece, hollow wheel body with airfoil shaped spokes using techniques that have been refined since 1989.

Next, we machine the wheel to accept the rim and hub using our specially designed machines. This operation is key in allowing us to maintain our precise tolerances.

We then attach the Velocity(TM) rim to the wheel using a combination of mechanical fasteners and a special chemical adhesive. We do not use a partial rim, or merely attach a flimsy aluminum braking surface. We utilize a full-blown bicycle rim and incorporate it into our wheel. This provides for a very strong and reliable wheel. See the cross-sections below.

700c uses the Aerohead Rim	Mtb and 20" Wheel uses the Aeroheat Rim

The wheels are then ready for some cosmetic finishing and the wheels are balanced taking into account the weight of a valve stem (that's what that mysterious hole is in the rim??)

Next, we put the special chemical application decals on. When you see the Aerospoke logo, you know that you have a quality product.

Since our hubs are removable, we do not put them in until you place an order. If you order a front wheel, we put a front hub in before shipping. However, before it rolls out the door, we do a multiple-point inspection to be sure that you are getting a wheel that you will be proud to ride.

Our tolerances for runout are .020" radially and laterally. Chances are the wheels you are riding now are running out more than that. If not, they will be soon. That is one of the many advantages of Aerospoke composite wheels- they start true- they stay true.

Before you judge a wheel by its weight, there are a few things to consider:

Despite of what you have been led to believe, weight is not everything! It certainly should not be the only thing to consider when making your high-performance wheel purchase. The wheels on your bike will take far more punishment than any other component. Isn't it a good idea, therefore, to make sure that your wheels are one of the most durable components? Also, your wheels are very instrumental in how your energy is transferred into motion.

Consider this: a bottle cage is a bottle cage. OK, there are some bottle cages that are much nicer than others, and that hold the bottles in place better, but, they have one simple task of holding the bottle in place while you ride. They are not effected by the rider's weight, or much by the rider's style. Most importantly, they are not a factor in the transmission of power from the rider to the wheel. Price and performance aside, if you have to choose between a 1 lb. bottle cage, and one that is 10 grams, you are going to choose the one that weighs 10 grams because you know that both are going to do the same job, right?

Unfortunately, the wheels on your bike are effected by the riders weight and style, the type of terrain that you ride on, and other factors. A super light wheel may look good on paper, but under-building a wheel for weight's sake can cause a variety of performance problems, including durability, safety, and efficiency. A light wheel can feel impressive when you pick it up, but how it handles and reacts on your bike may be a different story.

Consider two identical wheels for a road bike: one has the tire inflated to 100psi., and the other has the tire inflated to 25psi. Which wheel will be faster? The one with the 100psi tire, right? Of course. Why? Because the rolling resistance is much lower on the wheel with the 100psi tire. The same thing applies on your automobile- if the tires are under-inflated, your gas-mileage can suffer, and excess heat can build up causing premature wear and possible failure. Heat can only come from energy, so energy is being lost.

The same principles apply to a "spongy" ultra-light-weight wheel. Not only can it be aerodynamically inferior, with its wider frontal area, and a bunch of spokes stirring up the wind like an eggbeater in batter, but the "sponge-like" nature of the wheel can rob you of the energy that you are trying so hard to use for the sake of motion. Energy is being stolen away from you with each little flex of a flimsy wire spoke.

When you bought your frame, you considered its geometry and construction as to how it relates to power transmission. Too soft a frame can be comfortable, but how much of your energy is being lost before it gets to the wheel? How about your wheels? Did you consider how they would perform in the real world, or did you just put them on a scale and count grams?

It all comes down to this: We make high-performance wheels without sacrificing durability, or the safety of the rider. We make aerodynamic superior wheels that are fast. The wheel construction insures low rolling resistance and effective power transmission. They may be a little heavier than some, but are you going to ride them, or weigh them? If you are looking for high-performance wheels, chances are you are going to spend a lot of money. Shouldn't they be durable, low-maintenance, safe, and efficient? If they aren't all of these things, they aren't worth your time or money.

Did you know that each spoke on your current wheel is a maintenance point that will need attention some day? You can eliminate 64 maintenance points by replacing your 32 spoke wheels with Aerospoke carbon wheels. Don't take our word for it, click on our "testimonials" section to see what our customers have to say.

Brake adjustment
Because the Aerospoke wheel is a composite, narrow, aerodynamic wheel, it has some lateral flex. This flex is inherent and necessary in this type of wheel. If the wheel did not have some flex, it would be too brittle. Our proprietary composite formulation provides for maximum lateral stiffness, without unwanted brittleness. It is completely normal to have to open your brake pads slightly to accommodate.

Brake pads
Use thin pads formulated for aluminum. Be sure that the pads are braking on the ALUMINUM PART OF THE WHEEL ONLY! Braking on the composite can cause wheel failure and will void your warranty.

Runout Tolerance
Each Aerospoke is individually tested to assure that it is within our strict .020" runout tolerance, laterally and radially. The wheels should remain true with normal use and circumstances. Do not put your Aerospoke composite wheel under stress for a prolonged period of time. An example of this would be putting your wheel in your trunk (especially in hot weather) and putting a heavy object on top of it causing it to remain in the flexed state for an extended period of time. This can cause warpage of the wheel.

Be sure to periodically inspect the wheel for damage. Keeps the endcaps of the hubs tightened firmly with two 5mm hex wrenches.

Removal of Hub from Wheel
Undo the nut that holds the hub into the wheel. While resting the hub on a work bench, push the wheel, at the center, off of the hub.

To insert hub into wheel
While holding key(s) down in keyway(s), start hub into wheel on side with the molded directional arrow. Note: Your wheel may have loose keys, or it may have built-in keys. Next, tighten nut onto hub firmly. Check periodically to see that the nut remains tight. If loosening is a problem, use a couple drops of threadlocking compound.

To disassemble rear hub for service
Insert two 5mm hex wrenches in the end of the hubs and turn both counter-clockwise. One side or the other will let loose. The pictures below show how the whole assembly comes apart with the drive, and non-drive side cap loosening first.

If drive side loosens first, assembly comes apart as shown. You may have to hold the drive body and tap the end of the axle with a mallet to separate the hub.

Once the hub is apart, the pawls (4) and ratchet ring inside the hub can be cleaned and re-greased. Note: The more grease you insert, the quieter the hub will ratchet. However, too much grease can interfere with pawl operation, and cause excessive drag when freewheeling.

If non-drive side loosens first, assembly comes apart as shown below. Again, you may have to tap the end of the axle with a mallet to separate the hub.

Inspect the pawls, spring, and internal ratchet ring for excessive wear. Replace pawls and spring if needed. Worn ratchet rings require service at Aerospoke. Be sure that the "L" bend in the spring is seated into one of the grooves as shown below.

When re-assembling, regardless of which side came off, be sure that the spring stays positioned when putting the hub back together. You may have to push down on the pawls slightly to get them started into the ratchet ring.

Put endcap back on and re-tighten with the two 5mm hex wrenches.

If drive side loosens first
Assembly comes apart as shown. You may have to hold the drive body and tap the end of the axle with a mallet to separate the hub.

Once the hub is apart, the pawls (4) and ratchet ring inside the hub can be cleaned and re-greased. Note: The more grease you insert, the quieter the hub will ratchet. However, too much grease can interfere with pawl operation, and cause excessive drag when freewheeling.

If non-drive side loosens first
Assembly comes apart as shown below. Again, you may have to tap the end of the axle with a mallet to separate the hub.

Inspect the pawls, spring, and internal ratchet ring for excessive wear. Replace pawls and spring if needed. Worn ratchet rings require service at Aerospoke. Be sure that the "L" bend in the spring is seated into one of the grooves as shown below.

For Disc Hubs
Notice the offset from inside of dropout to the surface that the disc is bolted against.

Disc hubs are compatible with the international standard utilizing six (6) M5x.8 bolts and a 44mm bolt-circle diameter.

To use tandem rear hubs for the Arai? drum brake
There is no need to remove the hub from the wheel. Hub is removed in the following examples only for illustration purposes.

Apply some anti-seize lube or grease to the threads on the brake side and screw the drum all the way down until it stops at the nut.

Take apart the non-drive side of the hub assembly as shown below. Remove the non-drive side end cap and small spacer but leave the collar that seats against the bearing. Put the small spacer in a safe place. You will not need it unless you use the hub again without the drum brake.

Next, put center brake section over the axle and into the drum resting it on top of the collar(you first must enlarge the hole to 15mm or 19/32" ). Screw the endcap back onto the end of the axle.

Finish by tightening both end caps firmly.

When re-assembling
Regardless of which side came off, be sure that the spring stays positioned when putting the hub back together. You may have to push down on the pawls slightly to get them started into the ratchet ring.

Put endcap back on and re-tighten with the two 5mm hex wrenches.